Topic: juicy 5 brakes

[E90X + 1.1.11]

from the techs at SRAM - the organics are better for heavier riders as well.

What? who you calling fat?

i was having really bad "chattering and shaking" with my juicy carbons and the SRAM tech helped me out  - it isn't just for clydes but clydes need more stopping power than regular people

[Find Shelter Roadies]

So I went to my LBS was going to get organic break pads an pick their brain a bit just for some info, just asked simple stuff not how do I do this how do I do that... more like organic compared to the standard avid pad. Pretty much got the I don't know an the uhhhh response.. anyways They handed me my replacement pads and not another word no can I help you with anything else , Thanks , nothing So I told them thank you and appriciated it and went about my business, I don't get all into the bad service deal and make a scene but wow that was a first! Usually they are all incredibly friendly and pretty much willing to tie your shoes for you.... OHHH well we all have our days I guess...
ANYWAYS Got my pads, my panaracers came in too! Took the pads out and most def time for replacement!
I am going to give the rotors a light sand and clean with alcohol until I get my new rotors.
As for weight being an issue... im 6'4" and 165 lbs more like a telephone pole...So I think im more verticaly challenged than horizontal.

[firebiker]

I have the organic pads on now. It may have helped the noise some but not a lot. I put them on right before the Croom 50 and they were silent until about mile 20 or so.

[mksandoz]

i know LIGHT, but how LIGHT of a grit sandpaper should be used on rotors?

[Find Shelter Roadies]

i know LIGHT, but how LIGHT of a grit sandpaper should be used on rotors?

I was thinking more along the lines of a real fine grit more for like what they use to wet sand finishing paintjobs with... Thats just what was assuming...

[jazzman161]

I had that problem with the Juicy 5 on my SJ.  I loosened the caliper bolts and while squeezing the brake lever, tightened the caliper bolts.  You might have to spread the pads before.

Just wanted to say thanks for this tip. Took me like an hour to get both calipers done but I think I finally got them to stop rubbing on the rotor. I'll be able to tell for sure when I ride this weekend.

I was almost tempted to just rip em out and buy a different brand completely.

[jazzman161]

OK Now I'm getting tired of this. Brakes were just fine @ Boyette this morning. I come home, take off my wheels to do some cleaning, put them back on, and the front one is rubbing again. Now I did press the brake level once accidentally w. no wheel/rotor in place, so I'm just that messed it up somehow. I can't get it back to the way it was so my question is, is there a way to increase the gap between the brake pads? I'd rather just do that and increase em just a tad then play the guessing game of does this position or that position cause rubbing. 

[BillT]

Did you try squeezing the brakes hard a couple of times after you got the wheel back in?  This should help set the pads again.  You may also have to re-center the caliper again.

[jdk]

Usually you can to gently pry the calipers back apart with a small flathead screwdriver when that happens.

[jazzman161]

JDK - stick a flat in between the gap of the two brakes pads?

BillT - i trade squeezing the brakes and put a couple playings card in there (jmdeluca recommended) and still nothing. i played w. it for 30mins today and i'll play with it something this week. i cant recenter because i can't move that precise. if there's a gap one on side, it's rubbing on the other, and vice versa. if i try to move over to even out the gap, i rub on THAT side. confused? lol. i don't know how to better explain it. thanks for the tip though. i'll try again later tomorrow and see what happens.

[BillT]

JDK - stick a flat in between the gap of the two brakes pads?

This is something else you can try...take the wheel out and insert a broad, flathead screwdriver in there and pry the pads all the way out (or conversely, push the pistons all the way in).  Then you can re-insert your wheel and squeeze the brakes real hard several times and maybe your pads will re-center correctly for you.

Also, with regards to the recentering of the rotor - I believe all the Avid brakes have the eccentric bolts/washers that all you to move the caliper in/out to get it centered.  To do this, loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork, squeeze your brake (the pressure of the pads on the rotor should center the caliper), and then with the brake squeezed, re-tighten the bolts and things should be better.

[jdk]

JDK - stick a flat in between the gap of the two brakes pads?

Exactly. My last bike had Juicy 3's and I became intimately familiar with that technique.

[Anthem1]

Same with the Hayes, I will usually wiggle the caliper while it's loose prior to grabbing the brake lever to give me a little more room for error

[VELOMATT]

JDK
 Take your pads back out, use the box end of a 10 or 12mm box open end wrench, push the pistons  back into the calipers (you may need to work back and forth a few times), reinsert the pads, put wheel in.  Done.   When you squeeze the brakes the first few times you may notice that they pull all the way to the bars, but after two or three pulls it should be fine.  If, however you squeezed the lever too much with the wheel out you may need to have the brakes bled! 

Or you could try to use a cone wrench to try to pry the pads apart, I would not use a screw driver as that will mar the pads.  Just make sure that what ever you use clean it with alcohol or something so you do not ruin your pads.

 

[jazzman161]

I just got tired of it and went to the LBS. They fixed it in 2mins. The rotor still has a very slight rubbing noise but the wheel spins forever. Good for now and I'll take it to the LBS for a tune up labor day weekend.